The Famous Italian Wine Grape that is Not (Yet) Famous
Who’s heard of the Italian white variety Famoso, which means famous in Italian? Ironically, it’s so NOT famous that up through the year 2000 they thought it was extinct. It wasn’t until farmer Montalti in the moutainous Monte Sasso area just north of Tuscany in Romagna got curious about this white grape that was growing wild on his property from which he was making white sparkling wine ‘for fun’ use got curious about it.
Discovery and Salvation
Famoso has been grown in the North-Central region of Romagna in Italy for centuries. As Jancis Robinson says in the article Famoso - not (yet?) Famous, “Although it was mentioned in tax documents as long ago as 1437, after phylloxera ravaged Europe’s vineyards in the late 19th century it fell into decline and had almost disappeared by 2000. All that was left were two rows of vines yielding table grapes at the Montalti farm in Mercato Saraceno.” Thanks to disease and being replaced by more profitable sangiovese, famoso vines were forgotten and thought to be extinct.
Braschi winemaker Vincenzo Vernocchi recounted in a VeroTalk the story of the rediscovery of the famoso grape. As he explained, farmer Montalti had found a few rows of an unknown white grape in his vineyard in Romagna, not far from Braschi winery . Rather than remove it, he saved it and began to make a white sparkling wine to enjoy for himself. A different wine than anything else grown locally, the unique flavors stumped all as to what variety could it possible be. After many years, the grapes were taken and genetically tested to figure out what exactly they were. It was at this point it was discovered that they were the last remaining famoso vines. Local winemakers, excited about the re-discovery of this indigenous grape, began grafting new vineyards, bringing the famoso back to life. However, of the vineyards that now grow famoso, Braschi is proud to say their Famoso White Wine comes from the original Montalti vineyards where Famoso was rediscovered.
Tastes and Aromas
An aromatic grape, a famoso wine has a marked floral aromas on the nose. It can be compared to an aromatic chablis. In fact, Sommelier Ruth Ryberg said after tasting Braschi’s Famoso, “If it was a blind tasting I would’ve called out Chablis for the searing acidity and the chalky finish. The nose is all fresh picked apricot and lemon spray, with subtle hints of honeysuckle and marzipan.” Upon tasting, mineral notes open and exotic and apricot flavors come out.
When pairing with food, famoso is considered very food-friendly. A thick-skinned grape, it can carry you from the aperitivo before a meal, paired with soft cheeses and salami, all the way through to the main course with chicken dishes or light pasta sauces.
Famoso’s tale, from believed extinct to resurgence in public consciousness, has all the hallmark’s of an underdog tale. Grab a bottle to try in the shop, or better yet, buy a Taste of Romanga Tasting Trio: it includes a bottle of Famoso, and shipping is included.